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The
story
The
Presidia began in Italy in 1999 as the working arm of the
Ark of Taste. The Ark had catalogued hundreds of products
at risk of disappearing; but with the Presidia, Slow Food
decided to make a concrete contribution to the world of food
production. This step included understanding the management
of land, meeting producers and working to help them through
understanding their products, their work, and their wisdom.
The first two ‘test projects’ took place in Piedmont,
with the project to save the Morozzo Capon, and in Tuscany,
with the Zolfino Bean Presidium. At the beginning it was difficult
to explain the importance of the project model; it was met
with suspicion by producers and it plainly perplexed public
bodies. However, in only a few months the Presidia were launched.
An important first milestone was at the Salone del Gusto in
2000. The section of the event dedicated to the first 90 Italian
Presidia attracted the most press and visitor interest by
far. After 2000 the Presidia projects started to grow around
the world. The first 19 International Presidia made their
debut at the Salone del Gusto in 2002. Some of these—especially
those in European countries—are philosophically very
similar to the Italian Presidia, while others have developed
new and different approaches to agriculture and food production.
In some cases the Presidia are operating in a different food
tradition. In the United States, for instance, local gastronomy
is actually a mix of influences from cuisines around the world.
For this reason a new Presidium model was created in the United
States to promote artisan makers of raw milk cheese, uniting
a group of producers around a political food issue rather
than an existing product. In other situations it has been
important to understand the concept of taste quality in a
relative sense, when confronting tastes, history and knowledge
very distant from European, and in particular Italian, sensibilities.
Lastly and most importantly, Slow Food began Presidia projects
in the developing world. In these Presidia the project often
takes into consideration not only the production realities
but also socio-cultural (for example, promoting the involvement
of women or schooling for the producers’ children) and
environmental aspects. In this part of the world the Presidia
are not only about preserving a gastronomic tradition, but
may also aid in developing a product through technical assistance
(by paying for a consulting agronomist or organizing work
experiences with expert producers in the field), or through
buying necessary equipment (such as a huller, harvester, or
vacuum-packer).
In 2003, the Presidia became part of the story of the Slow
Food Foundation for Biodiversity, the leading body for all
Slow Food projects dedicated to the preservation of biodiversity.
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